     +++Dark Elf Warmaster Unit Counters - Ver 3 (Color)+++
           Designed by Robert S. Waller
                 cpbelt@att.net
         Images copyright Games Workshop

+++VERSION 3 CHANGES
** Correct Counter Size: Older sets printed each counter a bit too small. Version 3 corrects that oversight. However, make sure your printer's margins are set to 1/4" all around to insure proper printing. To print them to Version 2 size, set your printer's margins to 1/2" all around.

+++WHY COUNTERS?
Because they can save you a lot of time and money, allowing you to play Warmaster long before you can finish painting even one stand! Even Rick Priestly in the Warmaster rule book suggests using homemade counters. Below are some instructions for printing then making the counters. I hope you enjoy using them as much as I have enjoyed creating them. -Bob Waller, May 30, 2002

+++Command Counters
Some units come with optional "command" counters. If you choose to use a command counter, simply substitute it for one of the regular stands/counters. Just another option I like to provide. :-)

+++PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS
1. All the counter sheets are in black & white and are saved as 72dpi (dots per inch) high-quality '.tif' files. You will need a decent program capable of printing such files at 72dpi.

2. Make sure your printer's resolution is set to 72dpi so your counters will print to their proper size. If your printer allows it, set its dpi to either 150 or 300, then select the 'fit to sheet' or 'full size' option (the term varies from printer to printer). This should result in a higher resolution and be perfectly sized since the image itself is 8x10.5". (This is the method that I use when I print to the laser printers I use at work. Your method might vary.)

3. Remember that printers do not print to the edge of paper. Most leave a 1/4" margin all around. This is why I made the images 8"x10.5". If you print 'fit to sheet' or 'full size' then you should get proper sized counters. You may need to experiment a bit.

4. Print the sheets on quality thicker bond paper for best results, otherwise the black from the tile will eventually bleed through at places. I use 110 lb cardstock. Check if your printer can handle this weight.



+++MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS - my preferred method

1. Purchase the cheapest 1'x1' self-stick vinyl tiles you can find at your local hardware store. They run about 20cents each or so.

2. Peel off the tile's protective film from the sticky side. Do not touch the sticky side!

3. Take a counter sheet and carefully align the top corner and left side with the respective edges of the tile. Practice this on some unused tiles first to get the hang of it.

4. After you have aligned the sheet to the edges and all is square, press the sheet onto the sticky side of the tile in a sweeping motion like your hanging wallpaper. Make sure it is completely secure. Thankfully the tiles are cheap and the counter sheets are free, so don't panic if it takes a while to get the hang of it.

5. Now you will cut the tile into counters. Using a straight edge carefully score the sheet and tile along the lines. Cut through the sheet but DO NOT cut through the tile! Simply score it.

6. Once scored, simply snap the tile along the line and you'll get a clean break. It's really simple and fast. This gives you a crisp, clean counter that will hold up to a ton of abuse. This is a trick from other miniature games that don't have stands included in their miniature packs.

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